There are a few ways to go about hand pollinating frangipani, the easiest is where you insert something fine down the throat of the flower till it touches the bottom then spin it in your fingers. This will break open the anthers and with any luck the pollen will fertilize the flower causing a seed pod to grow. You need to repeat this regularly through the flowering cycle till you find the best time for it to happen, this varies from place to place due to the growing conditions, here at the farm it can be from early December through to March/April but the closer to winter the greater chance of the pods being aborted. I use a few different things to do this, from the stalk from one of the grass weeds to a sanded down tooth pick or a piece of fishing line, just as long as it fits easily down the throat and it will spin inside the flower and break open the pollen sacks. Pods start to develop about 2 weeks after fertilization and mature in around 9 months so you can count back once the pod opens to find out the best time to try pollinating, this type of pollination is referred to as "selfing".
The next type of polination is a better way to introduce different pollen into the flower but you can still self it as this method leaves the plants own pollen in the flower. First select the male parent and pick several fresh flowers and split them open so you can remove the anthers, there are 4 in each flower. Once you have removed them place them in a tablespoon or small recepticle and add some distilled water then you need to try to break open the anthers(I use a teaspoon) and make a slurry with the pollen and water. You then pour this into a syringe with a plastic needle fine enough to fit in the flower, give it a good shake so that the pollen is well mixed(the more anthers used the better the slurry) and then place the needle in the throat to the bottom and squeeze in just a small drop of the mix. As the water evaporates the pollen fertilizes the flower if you have gauged it right, you only do this to a couple of flowers per inflo as too many cause the plant to possibly abort them and it slows down the growth of the other pods. Again you will know within a couple of weeks if it has worked otherwise you do it again.
Cross Pollination : The Moragne Method
This is the only true way to do a total cross pollination as the anthers are removed from the receptor flower. To do this I use a magnifying head piece(similar to the ones doctors use) so that I can see the small anthers easily, with a scalpel I open the bottom of the flower and remove the anthers of the donor male and go to the the selected female and repeat the process after removing the top off the flower. I then press on the donor anthers slightly to break the pollen open and place them inside the receptor plant then push a plastic straw over the flower and cover the hole I cut to access the anthers etc. The top of the straw is bent over and taped or the end melted/stuck together( before putting it on the flower) so that nothing can access the flower to contaminate the cross, again I only do this to a couple of flowers per inflo, I repeat this in two weeks time if no pods start to grow.
In all these methods you need to use newly opened/opening flowers as your donors and female receptors even in “selfing” as it gives you a better chance of success and do not give up, once you find the premium time to pollinate you can get pods on your plants regularly but do not over do it as it will drain the plant of energy. Pods are reasonably quick growing and need to be of a reasonable size before winter to survive, too many on the one plant can mean none survive. At the start of spring you can put stockings or similar over the pods so that you do not loose any seeds when they open up, open weave is better as it will not hold water which can cause rot problems. Then it is simply a matter of planting your successful crosses out and waiting to see if you have created a new variety.
Also remeber to write down the crosses and the dates you did them as well as tag the trees with the info, this way you do not forget exactly what you did and when you did it so that you can repeat it as necessary, mark each entry as a success or failure for future reference.
There are some varieties that are exceptional pod setters, I have found that cerise is a huge pod setter and so are some of the pinks, with seedlings it is best to let them mature for a few flowering seasons before trying to set pods so that the genes are stronger, they can take up to 3 flowerings before their true flower colour is determined, sometimes even longer.
In the photo pictured you can see the tools I use, the blade of grass, the sanded down tooth pick(selfing), the small syringe and fine plastic needle(water pollination), the small scalpel and the magnifying head set(Moragne method).